You should only Cap Over your Existing wooden timber fascia if the wooden fascia is in Good sound condition and free from Rot and any other infestation. Before you begin capping over existing timber fascia ensure that the wood is dry and treated with a wood preservative.
What you should know before you start.
Current building regulations require you to ventilate the soffit for new build projects. This is equvilant to a 25mm gap along the whole of the soffit. There are many ways to acheive this, the easiest way is to purhase Pre-Ventilated soffit. If replacing Fascia and soffits its worth Ventilating your soffits to improve ventillation.
Preparation Before Fixing
Remove bottom 1-2 rows of tiles
Remove old fascias, soffits and bargeboards to prevent any moisture that remains from rotting the supporting timber. If you chose to leave these items in place, please ensure that any rotted timber is cut out and replaced with treated timber
Inspect the rafter felt and replace where necessary with felt or with eaves protector
Provide adequate support at the wall for the soffit
a. Extend a noggin from the wall, or
b. Fix a batten to the wall, or
c. Use the rafters as support
Fixing Soffit
GPB board can be fixed directly to the noggin or batten with plaspins, fig. 2.1
For a super neat finish use J-trim in single or two-part form to hold and give a neat finish to the inside edge of the soffit at the wall
If cladding profile or hollow soffit is used, they can alternatively be used in short lengths from the wall to the fascia
At the gable end there are two main choices:
a. The soffit continues all the way until it reaches the gable box end, fig. 2.2, or
b. The soffit terminates at an angle of 45 degrees to the corner of the wall and a H-trim is used to integrate with the soffit forming the base of the gable box, fig. 2.3
VentilationVentilation is provided at the eaves by means of purpose-made slotted soffit boards or by our overfascia ventilation Ventilation is provided at the eaves by means of purpose-made slotted soffit boards or by our overfascia ventilation Fig. 2.1 above shows the typical pre-vented general purpose board Fig. 3.1 shows the typical ventilation (F104V or F109) for the hollow soffit |
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Fixing Fascia1. The depth of the fascia used should be chosen so that the top edge of the fascia does not bear the weight of the tiles if 10mm or less thick. 2. Nail the first length of fascia into position, starting exactly in line with the centreline of the corner rafter, then at not more than 600 mm centres into the ends of the rafters. Remember that, when the fascia is in position, the rainwater gutter has to follow, so position your nails so as to be clear. of the subsequent screw fixings. This will ensure that: a) the screws go in without problems and b) the brackets won’t rock from side to side because there is a projecting head of a nail behind them. Remember at the gable end cut back the fascia leg at a 45-degree angle, fig. 4.1 3. Cut the fascia to length, to ensure that its other end coincides with the centreline of a rafter. Ideally, the end should be just short of the rafter’s centreline. Twice nail the fascia into the tail of every rafter, at not more than 600 mm centres. At the joint between each length of fascia board, a joiner is needed. Pre-drill and twice pin it into either the right or left hand fascia board (not both). In this procedure you should ensure that a minimum of 5mm spacing is left between board ends to allow for expansion, fig. 4.2 4. Start at the left-hand corner: a. Without Bargeboards – It couldn’t be much simpler: fix the fascia boards along the front, with joints at rafter tails as necessary. The projecting eaves normally have a small box end, which is cut from a single piece of fascia board. If a separate fillet covering the tilting fillet is required, this additional triangle can easily be incorporated into the new box end. With fascia and box ends in place, fix end caps or corner trims to both ends with nails/pins; superglue and activator; or silicone in accordance with local custom. Where superglue or silicone are being used, special care should be taken to ensure that surfaces are clean and dry before fixing begins. b. With Bargeboards – Where bargeboards are involved, the procedure is slightly different, because the box ends have to be formed. Before cutting the corner trim, remember its height is not governed by the depth of the eaves fascia - it’s the depth of the bargeboard that matters. A 225 mm deep bargeboard, when cut vertically at its end, has to be deeper because you’re not cutting at right angles. If the pitch is 45 degrees, 225 becomes 318 mm and, at 22.5 degrees, it’s 242 mm. A tilting fillet can add another 50 mm or so. 5. Note: The leg of the fascia will support the outside edge of the soffit. |
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Finishing the Gable End
Fig 2.1, 2.2, and 2.3 illustrate a typical box end support framework
Fig 5.1 illustrates components required to dress, build or complete the box
Fig 5.2 shows the completed box end